Yalis 2026
A few photos from last weekend's visit to Alert Bay, called by its original and current inhabitants "Yalis."
This was our second visit--we went up last year as well. It's a fascinating place--still a strong First Nations (Namgis') presence. They present an annual event called T'sasala (Determined) in which dances and song are presented in their Big House. They are committed to transmitting their traditions to their next generation, as is apparent in the event.
I find the music and dance utterly compelling. I've heard people say, "Oh but I've seen that before," which is kind of akin to someone saying "I've already heard a Beethoven symphony." I've now attended four T'sasalas and they're always different and always wonderful.
My two friends, Sally and Lynne, say they're rather do some other road trip next year and no doubt we will, but I'll definitely return to Yalis for the event.
We stayed in accommodation with a fine view of the shore. Its advertised as hotel accommodation but is more like an apartment, with the best equipped kitchen I've ever met in an hotel. And very comfortable!
This year we were joined by two of Sally's cousins (I guess one cousin and a cousin-in-law--these things get complex) who have come up here from Arizona. Although the weather was just cool they were wearing down jackets and looked ready for the arctic.
In addition to the First Nations museum--U'umista, and the T'sasala event, there are many totem poles and other carvings throughout the community and what they wall an "ecological centre," a forest and marsh that plainly has been logged at some point but which has some amazing huge cedars.
It's apparent that some of the cedars have been "culturally modified"--strips of bark are removed for a variety of purposes, including making fabric and baskets.
There's one modified tree at the centre of the photo. Done skilfully, by knowledgeable people, this does not harm the tree. Done by amateurs at the wrong season, it can be destructive. The folks at the U'umista Centre tell us that they patrol this forest to keep it safe, so I'll assume that the modifications we saw were done by Namgis' who knew what they were doing.
We were fortunate in the weather--it rained one of the nights of our stay, but remained calm and at times sunny during the days.
The T'sasala event was the last public event for the season. Once again, it was well attended and well presented.
The Big House seats over a thousand people. A cedar fire burns in its centre.
The end walls have post and beam supports with totem figures of Thunderbird, Bear, and (I think) Tsonoqua, the wild woman of the woods as supports, and the magical Sisiutl two-headed serpent as a crossbeam.
This year, they opened with a Weather Dance, in support of their National relatives who are suffering the effects of drought in Interior BC. Two quite young dancers represented Mosquito and (I think) Grebe.
Participants were from a wide range of ages:
This was the first season for this dancer, but not for her cape, which had been her grandfather's when he was a youngster. Doesn't she have wonderful carriage?
The Salmon Dance honours the fish that has been a mainstay of the 'Namgis diet and culture since time immemorial. Participants ranged from tiny Cecilia to Aunties and Grandmothers.
The Peace Dance was held at Potlatches when disagreement had arisen between a chief and other bands.
The headgear was ermineskin with a crown-like assemblage either of whale baleen or sea lion whiskers. Eagle down was spread from the headgear as a symbol of reconciliation. (It's now some less regal substance.) In the course of the dance, one of the chiefs is led out of the hall, and returned as a Bekwas--a wild man of the woods. The Bekwas is about half the size of an adult, ravenous, and very very shy. In the dance, he hides his face from viewers.
Eventually he is led from the hall by the other chiefs, to be re-integrated with his community in human form.
Finally, a last wonderful event. The dancers offer scarves, inviting the audience to join in a "Friendly Dance," circling the hall.
I'm a hopeless dancer, always have been, but I find this irresistible. So no photo--I'm out on the floor, enjoying myself hugely!
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